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Whenever curating a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might expect renowned award-winning venues. Yet, tucked prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a distant corner of north London.

An Surprise Accolade

The small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. This accolade has made the family completely shocked.

“I am totally surprised,” states a proprietor, alluding to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their small place achieving such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

The small shop, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its earlier feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the fare, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent consistency.

It is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. As the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in less syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, toastier and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for below £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into many times that price.

A Ethos of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate outside its own doors. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this culinary honour.